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Day One of Early Access
Anticipation, excitement and constant login refreshing..........oh my!
We're day one into the Early Access for Star Wars The Old Republic, and for those that pre-ordered the game early enough braved the countless of hours of login desperation to start off their eagerly awaited adventure in the Star Wars realm.
As 2000WST hit here in Perth, Western Australia an abundance of players flocked to the SWTOR login launcher to test their might at what I'd like to call "The Login Game". Millions of Star Wars enthusiast (cough cough..nerds) like myself were awaiting to see if they were lucky enough to get selected by Bioware to get into the servers. The feeling, I would like to compare it to would be like Charlie in "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory" scoring that Golden Ticket! (see here) and for others not so lucky it would be this feeling (see here).
One could say the Early Release went off without a hitch(no innuendo intended)! Albeit a very carefully planned structure of slow access releases by Bioware, the access waves were painstakingly slow which allowed the hours of login attempts drag on into the early morning. Unlike my comrades, Magmaros, Alejandro/Abel, Thanos, and Dern who got in first time, I was left like millions of other enthus-nerds calling out to the internet gods "What about me?!".For me I gave up the login game at 2130 and re-woke up at 1300 to try again with no luck, and once again at 1400 which this time proved to be worth the wait! I WAS IN!!!!!!!
To highlight a few achievements of the night, our early-access login heroes were successful in power levelling hard to purchase and secure our guild name of "It's a Trap" and our recruitment officer already working hard to attract potential guildies - we are currently sitting at 19 members (5 which are db).
So with that said a big welcome to our new recruits, I'm sure we'll find a good use for you all on the front lines!
Trudging onto the closure of Day 1, we expect to see more db members and new recruits help flourish and bolster our numbers as we head towards a great adventure of PVP and PVE goodness. So you can expect many more post updates from your fellow guildies to keep you filled in, furthermore in the next couple of days the guild ranking, and roles within the guilds will be revised, calendar event days scheduled, and the continual grind towards Level 50!
-Eva
“Watch your mouth kid, or you’ll find yourself floating home.”
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How to join us on Mumble!
Mumble (link) is a VOIP (Voice Over Internet Protocol) client which enables users to talk freely to each other, via headset or microphone. Delta Brotherhood uses Mumble as its primary means of communication in game, and also as a way to conduct meetings.
Details for Mumble are below
IP: 58.6.13.116
Port: 64748
MUMBLE TUTORIAL
What follows is a short tutorial on how to connect to the Delta Brotherhood Mumble server.
Step 1: Download Mumble (from here) and install it. Once installed run mumble, and it will go through some standard settings for you to choose from. After that you need to join our server !! if your new to mumble below will be a quick guide / pics of what to do to join and chat with us.
Step 2: Open up Mumble then click on the server tab > connect
Step 3: Then in the connect box, click on the Add New ... button, then type in the following, see pic below - be sure to put in your In game nick that you used for applying
Step 4: Now your connected to Delta Brotherhood, youll need to setup a few things before chatting to everyone though !! Click on configure tab > settings, once there youll see on the bottom left corner " Advanced " check the box.
Step 5: Go to shortcuts on the left hand pane, then change your push to talk key to whatever you like
Step 6: Now go to the overlay tab, and make sure the box is disabled, this is so that mumble overlay program does not conflict with other programs.
Step 7: Your now ready to go and chat to peeps, just dont forget to let people with the " mumbleadmin " tag know that your " (name) and your an applicant " so they can give you the proper tags and such.
Just by joining us on Mumble to make yourself known, you are giving yourself a huge boost over other applicants, and stand a better chance of gaining probationary status than if you opted not to idle in Mumble. Dismissed!
Still having issues? Feel free to try flag someone in the shoutbox on the forum root page.
(Guide thanks to Thanos)
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D1 QMX > sG 2-1 FFYI BO3 BF3
So with iM's FFYI bracket finally coming to an end, D1 QMX faced off against sG in the Grand Final best of three match. The first game was arranged to be played on Sunday night directly after our game against Team Unknown. The next and (if needed) third game was then to be played on the following Tuesday.
The first map was to be decided by 10v10 repair tool battle royal. Everyone gathered in the river on Caspian whilst iM-SadAct watched from above. sG went for the popular 'flying V' tactic which we tried to replicate, though it soon became clear that ours turned into more of a flying N. sG had come prepared, slowly picking us off until Kopta finally snapped and unleashed a grenade into the middle of the battlefield. Way to go out in style Kopta...
sG winning the repair tool battle got to choose the map. Quickly and as we had already guessed they picked Grand Bazaar. Feeling rather burnt out since we had just finished playing the 2nd round match against Team Unknown, everyone soldiered on and did the best they could with the little preparation we had had for this game. sG took swift advantage of our weakness, running circles around us and controlling better positions whilst we floundered about between flags in a mad scramble. Needless to say, we lost pretty badly and there was some very colourful language and hard feelings after the game. If any silver lining could be sort from this mess it was that we just scraped in a win on the second half with three tickets to spare.
Sloth Gaming > D1 QMX 94-3
First half:
Second half:
As Tuesday approached everyone got themselves out of the ditch we had dug and put on a brave face for the match. Since sG had picked the first map, we had choice for the second. Feeling confident in our vehicle supremacy over sG it was decided that Caspian would be a good pick. We had scrim'd the map a couple of times before and had a half decent understanding of what we needed in order to lock it down. What we had a sneaking suspicion of and what was later confirmed by sG was that they had completely skipped practicing for Caspian and had just focused on taking us out in the final map, Seine Crossing (as was the map chosen by iM to be played as the decider). Caspian was looking good for us at this point, we ran over our rollout a couple times and put together arguably one of our strongest vehicle rosters. We would be ready this time.
Between Browny, Kopta, Putto and myself we had managed to attain air superiority within a short while and our infantry set to work on maintaining bleed with Kopta & Putto flying overhead in the chopper. From what I could tell in the jet, this match was a shutout. sG un-practiced and ready to give in, our game plan clearly superior the match went down faster and easier than expected. Shout-out to Bourne who played his first ever BF3 scrim this game. Also to Putto and Kopta for smashing first half and to everyone on the ground whom managed to control C without need for a retake. It was a very strong game and in just 22 minutes and 16 seconds our strength and confidence was back.
D1 QMX > Sloth Gaming 223 - 0
First half:
Second half:
It had all come down to this, Seine Crossing. Our 2nd round match had been against Team Unknown on Seine, the strats fresh in our mind and with the hunger for victory we switched out a couple of players from Caspian for our known and proven infantry kings. Sitting waiting for sG to get their 10th player in, we again ran through verbally all the rollouts and discussed whether it was what we should be doing. The doubt was starting to creep in and after all, sG had focused all their attention on this map. How good would they be?
After what seemed like forever, the match finally got underway. Starting as Russia we approached the points the same we had against Unknown but this time we we're up against stronger competition. B & D we're safely capped but the pivotal C flag was taken. It was a to and fro for the next while as the tickets slowly drained down. Each team on 2 flags, it became a battle of numbers. Kopta once again in the tank wasn't receiving enough support and we couldn't get the jump on them, they would always get our tank down just as we finished theirs. Various pushes were made to cap back C but none proved successful, sG were holding onto it tightly and we were forced to abandon the prospect of ever capping it back. With another push, Kopta and the B squad had managed to slip in behind their tank to finish him off whilst he was occupied shooting ahead. Their tank was down and we had an advantage. Throwing our resources at A, sG tried to scramble back into position but it was too late. We had secured the flag and surrounded C. Their tank down, it was free roam for about a minute, a vital minute though it was and one that had secured us the first half win. 76-0.
What happened next was almost heart breaking. Our second half bailout went horribly wrong, our spawn order was messed up accidentally which put us at a disadvantage in dropping crucial seconds. It cost us hard, just managing to secure B whilst sG took A,C & D saw us needing to chase down a 60 ticket deficit. On the back foot Kopta set about pushing the tank hard into A whilst a somewhat un-coordinated push from my squad ran in the complete opposite direction towards D, separating our resources and making it hard for ourselves. With sG trying to hold off our tank, their D flag remained lightly defended. What turned out still to be a rough battle saw us take D after a few attempts whilst A still remained in sG's hands. Falling out from D Bogan's squad again tried to retake the pivotal C flag but to no gain, it wasn't until their tank began focusing on D did we get the chance to retake A. We had got ourselves a foot-hole and managed to hold the three cap enough to catch up within 20 tickets. At this rate, we would win as sG needed to beat our first half score.
B remaining our only solid flag, A and D changed hands continually. Time continued to whittle away and so did sG's window to meet that 76 ticket margin. What turned out to be a very messy match had come down to a nail biting come-back. Their tickets hit 75 and within the busy Mumble channel began an eruption of questions. Had we won? Kopta was it 76 tickets? How many tickets was it? It wasn't until a few of the sG members had posted 'gg' in game before the win dawned on us. With a couple of rage quits from sG and a lack of enthusiasm their 30 point margin dropped in the final minute down from 15-5 to 10-4, 2-3 and finally! 0-3 our way.
D1 QMX > Sloth Gaming 79 - 0
First half:
Second half:
With the 2-1 win over Sloth Gaming and dominance in the FFYI bracket, D1 QMX will now get to play in iMmunity's 8 team round-robin over the next two weeks, facing off against Australia's best BF3 teams and players. Best of luck guys, it's going to be a hell of test.
A well deserved Hooah to you all! Congratulations.
Follow the ladder and D1 QMX's progress here: http://www.cybergame...3imcomp/league/
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Qlimax Crew Sponsoring D1
Qlimax Crew is pleased to announce its return to the Battlefield genre with the arrival of the renowned Battlefield 3 team "Delta Brotherhood". Qlimax has joined forces with DB adding their elite "D1" team to our roster to recieve our utmost support. Here is a little information about delta brotherhood;
"(db]]'s philosophy is to maintain a group of members who strive to compete at the highest levels of competition in various games. However, just as importantly, we try to maintain a community of like minded people who enjoy socialising with each other, both through games and externally (at various events held regularly throughout Australia). For this reason we generally seek members who are looking to remain for a longer term, rather than regularly moving between teams."
Schecken, the Managing Director for QMX had the following to say;
"Associating ourselves with this long-standing and respected team is a joy, they are renowned for their maturity and level headedness in the battlefield, traits that everyone at Qlimax Crew must have. I wish them the very best of luck in their endeavours under the Qlimax-Crew banner."
Kopta, a captain from DB had the following to say;
"With the release of BF3 we set about recreating one of the best teams in AUSBF history, with a combination of the new talent and the wisdom and knowledge from our BF2142 team we are definitely capable of this goal. Qlimax Crew is a name only assosciated with the best in the eSports industry and it is with pride that we bare their name."
We share their philosophy here at the Crew and we hope this relationship prospers for years to come. Be sure to follow the new QMX BF3 division on all CyberGamer ladders and competitions!
The new Qlimax-Crew BF3 lineup is as follows;
Captains;
- WorthlessSnypeR
- deebee
- Kopta
- Bourne
- Browny
Members;
- Drag0n
- Putto
- Sc0tty
- Bogan
- Pinga
- scrpz
- SubNoize
- Goob_Scooper
- checkingrage
- York
Read the article on the website here
Follow us on Facebook and YouTube
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So you wanna get into watercooling
Okay, so you've taken the first step into watercooling !!! GRATZ
First Step
First step into doing your watercooling system, is RESEARCH, look into other peoples builds / loops, do research on what gear you need, for the case you have, theres lots of people that have many diff cases, you might be lucky and have someone that has done a w/c build with your case before !!
http://forums.overcl...isplay.php?f=24 ; this website will give you pretty much everything you need to start out with getting into watercooling.
; this is a youtube link by user juggolo, its pretty much a step by step guide on how to install a watercooling loop. it has by memory 4 - 5 parts.
Second Step
Okay so you've done your research, now its time to pick and choose your watercooling items.
Heres a list of websites that you will most likely buy your parts from, there are others but these 3 are the main ones that most peeps go to.
http://thekoolroom.com/
https://www.gammods.com.au/store/
http://pccasegear.com/
Pumps
Theres a few options to go for and lots of diff brands, but basically you can have either a D5 or a DDC pump version; now personally I would go with the D5 pump, their a bit bigger and have more power, DDC pumps are smaller and more manageable in cases, just not as powerful.
Tip - Try to go for a pump that has a variable speed, so you can change speed of how fast the pump will go.
D5 - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=205
DDC - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=207
Now if you have the money, and want a Good pump, id suggest getting this, http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=203 ; Aquacomputer Aquastream Pump Ultra - its a great pump and has a good design, it also has some nice addons that you can attach to it, and has a program to run the pump.
Also if you are going to go with a tube res / bay res that doesnt involve installing the pump into the res, then get a pump top they make your build look nicer and they make the pumps easier to use. http://thekoolroom.c...id_product=1043 - D5 pump top // http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=220 - DDC pump top
Reservoir
Now there are plenty of options for reservoir's, but mainly there are 2 options, 1 is a Tube Reservoir the other is a Bay Reservoir. For the easiest option get a Res that you can install the pump into. Makes life a lot easier.
Tip - go for a res your attracted too, some ppl may say a bay res are lame, some say tube res are bad. but just try to choose something that you like, at the end your the one that will be admiring your own work and looking at it more than others.
Take note, for Tube Res, dont over tighten them as they will crack; Bay Res are harder to bleed, but not impossible !!
D5 Res - http://thekoolroom.c...id_product=1126
DDC Res - http://thekoolroom.c...id_product=1127
Personally I would choose an Aquacomputer branded Res, either the Tube; http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=125 or bay res; http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=122
Radiator
Okay there's HEAPS and HEAPS of rads that you can choose and go for; this is a general rule. 120.2 ( 120mm x2 fan ) for cpu block and then 120.1 ( 120mm x 1 fan ) for every other block after that. Now there's a simple rule, MORE RAD = MORE HEAT transfer, so basically more rad means more cooler temps.
Tips - High FPI rads needs HIGH RPM fans, Low FPI fans needs LOW RPM fans, usually go for Low FPI rads, you can use HIGH / LOW rpm fans but for a quite system work with Low rpm fans try Thermalright brand fans, their quite enough and they suck / blow enough air for cooling.
Now there are also Thick / Thin Rads, they mostly do the same thing, just one is thicker than the other which means the ones that are thicker can hold more water / coolant in them which then makes them more cooler through heat transfer, if you dont have space in your case, obviously thinner rad widths would be easier to install in smaller cases, for large cases try to use the thicker width rads.
120.3 Rad ( 360 = 120mm x 3 ) - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=152
There's plenty of Radiator options just remember the rule of thumb, 120.2 for cpu block and every 120.1 for each waterblock. go for brands that are recommended on a mass scale, i.e. Hardware Labs rads are ones that most w/c peeps are using, you can also go with Aquacomputer branded rads, they're new and cool and well.... aquacomputer know how to engineer some quality products.
Tubing
Tubing is simple, 1/2" OD is thick tubing - very rigid and less prone to kinking // 3/8" OD is thin tubing - thin not as rigid, easier to install on more acute angle, but more prone to kinking.
personally I would go with thicker tubing, but thats just me. Choose what you like there isnt really any benefit from thick or thin.
try to go with Primoflex branded tubing, they have a good track record.
1/2" OD tubing - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=247
3/8" OD tubing - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=248
Now if you want colour you can do that too, there are UV coloured tubing, which look quite good, and there are Full colour tubing as well, but they come in either White or Black.
Tips - dont be sparring with the amount of tubing you get, try to get more than what you really need if you have just cpu block invovled than something like 3 - 4 metres is more than enough for more get something like 6 metres. its better to have excess tubing leftover than having not enough to finish your build !!!
Coolant / Fluid
I prefer using Distilled water + silver coil ( to kill the germs ) or you can go with coolant - http://thekoolroom.c...id_product=1042
Tip - Coolant is all in one, has germ killing additives in it, BUT, there have been issues with coolant, the coloured ones have been known to clog your waterblocks and burn through some tubing and such. some chemicals inside some coolants will slowly chew apart perplex / tubing items.
Distilled water + silver coil have issues also some are known to be kill copper / nickel in some blocks.... but its not as common and are usually isolated incidents using shitty branded products.
Distilled water + silver coil are cheaper and much much easier to use.
Silver coil - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=402 - simple to use, just put it into your res and have it just sitting there.
Barbs / Compression Fittings
Theres plenty of fittings out there, 1/2" ID or 3/8" ID just make sure you use the right threadings that go with your waterblocks.
Tips - Compression fittings are kool looking, but are known to tear and wear tubing, their hard to use at times, but do make your loop look better. I personally use barb / clamp.... easier to install and the look of it isnt that bad.
Try to get yourself enough fittings that you need for your loop, know what sort youll need as well, angles or straight ones, if not sure, just get half of each, better to have more than to have none at all !!!
Compression Fittings 3/4 OD - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=321
Compression Fittings 1/2 OD - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_product=325
Barbs - http://thekoolroom.c...?id_category=37 - Go for enzotech barbs, theres plenty there, just match the specs to your tubing specs, if your confused, you can always email thekoolroom reps, they are very very friendly and love to help.
CPU BLOCK
Get a good branded block, steer clear of EK products at the current time, they arnt doing too well for now. Aquacomputer is bang for buck product, try to go with them, if not just do some research and OCAU peeps can help lead you as well.
INTEL BLOCK - http://thekoolroom.c...id_product=1130
AMD BLOCK - http://thekoolroom.c...id_product=1166
GPU BLOCK
Same goes with GPU blocks, steer clear of EK products at the current time, go with brands like Aquacomputer, they are well designed.
Third Step
Okay now you have ordered your products, to install your watercooling loops its quite simple just like building a computer.
Tips -
1. try to setup your whole w/c system outside the comp first, install all the parts and tube them up, put in distilled water and get it powered up, this is to ensure there are no leakages and no suprises when you put it into the computer
2. take your time, the worst thing you can do is rush it and forget something and have coolant / distilled water all over your motherboard !!!
3. when you first boot up the loop with the computer in place, use paper towles and put them under where the tubes insert into the barbs, that way if there is a leak it will hit the paper towel mostly instead of computer parts.
4. if you do have leakages, dry out those parts before booting up the system again..... the last thing you want is excess water around and you end up frying something. A hair dryer can do that but for best results use Sunshine
5. quiteness is the key for watercooling, your pump will make noise when you first put it through its pumping out all those air bubbles, so after a few hours it will go quite, get some good fans low rpm high cfm fans.... like i suggested the thermalright ones are perfect, their quite and do enough for cooling.
6. dont be lazy, always maintain your loop, every about 6months or so, drain your loop ( bleeding ) and put in same coolant or new ones. if using distilled water, just put in new distilled water.
7. if you start to see colour fading from tubing / coolant or water looking a bit murky..... bleed your system straight away, and take apart your blocks checking for dye clogging or algae growth, if this is the case, its as simple as running them under water cleaning it up, and then soak them in distilled water, drain it dry it up and they should be as good as gold to use again.
8. take pics, post them up, show your e-peen off !!!!!
I hope this helps those that want to get into watercooling and if so...... WELCOME TO THE CLUB, DONT FORGET TO POST YOUR BUILDS ON OCAU FORUMS, AND BUILD LOGS, PEEPS LOVE IT AND THEY CAN ALWAYS ALWAYS HELP YOU OUT. surprisingly enough they arnt dicks !!!
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Australian Consumer Law - How it is relevant to...
On 1 January 2011, the Competition and Consumer Act 2010 came into full effect, and with it the "Australian Consumer Law" (ACL) effectively went LIVE.
Although this legislation is obviously more significant to business, in essence it is still law which is designed to protect average Australian consumers against unfair and unjust practices. The laws are standardised across Australia, so no matter where you are gaming from, they are relevant to you.
The ACL contains a lot of regulations, but most relevant to the Australian eSports community is a the new system of guarantees on which consumers can rely when buying goods and services. Essentially, the application of the legislation to us is:
What are my "rights" when a new piece of hardware / software breaks or doesnt work?
This article focuses on the consumer "guarantees" provided under the ACL. Dependant upon the situation other "rights" under the legislation (ie in relation to misleading or deceptive business practices) may apply - however I have not addressed these.
Who provides the guarantees? (ie Who can I get to fix my problem?)
The guarantees apply to "suppliers" and "manufacturers" of goods to consumers. It is important to note that they apply REGARDLESS of any warranty or guarantee provided by the supplier or manufacturer.
A common response from computer parts manufacturers is:
"Im sorry your [Graphics Card/ HDD / Computer] is out of warranty. You will have to pay [$ exorbitant amount] to get it fixed or replaced"
or
DONT BE FOOLED!
The guarantees under the ACL exist regardless of the warranty or anything said or done by the supplier or manufacturer. You can't run away from us now dodgey computer salesperson...
HOWEVER - not everyone provides these guarantees, only:
- A 'Supplier" - who is anyone,including a trader, a retailer or a service provider who, in trade or commerce, sells goods or services to a consumer.
- A "Manufacturer" - who is a person or business that makes or puts goods together or has their name on the goods. It includes the importer, if the maker does not have an office in Australia.
What are the guarantees?
The guarantees that are most likely to be relevant to gamers are:
- guarantee that goods are of acceptable quality when sold to a consumer
- guarantee that goods will be reasonably fit for any purpose the consumer or supplier specified
- guarantee that their description of goods is accurate and that the goods will match any sample or demonstration model and any description provided
- guarantee that the goods will satisfy any extra promises made about them (express warranties)
I bought a computer for $3,000 18 months ago. Recently the motherboard fried itself (no fault of my own). I tried to return the computer to get fixed, however the retailer said that it was outside the 12 mont warranty period, so I would have to buy a new motherboard.
What can I do?
Reasonably fit for purpose
The computer salesman told me that a 400W PSU would be enough for my Quad-SLI setup. I have talked to the guys at Delta Brotherhood, and it is clear that the power supply is not powerful enough. I have tried to take it back to get a refund, however the computer shop refuses to give me a refund, pointing to the sign that says "No refund for change of mind".
I am a poor uni student who can't afford another PSU... please help!
Match Description
I ordered a black monitor online to go with the rest of my polished black gaming rig. It arrived in the post however, although it is the correct model, it is a gay white colour! I will be the laughing stock of all my gaming buddies if they see this mismatching item.
(db]] help me save my gaming cred!
Express warranties
The computer store provided me with a booklet that says my new "super-slippery" gaming grade mouse pad could take 5 years of constant use before it wears out. After 6 months the "slipperyness" is gone. I miss slippery...
Remedies
If goods fail to meet a guarantee, a consumer will have rights against the supplier and, in some cases, the manufacturer, who will have to provide a ‘remedy’ – an attempt to put right a fault, deficiency or failure to meet an obligation.
When the problem is minor, the supplier can choose between providing a repair or offering the consumer a replacement or a refund.
When there is a major failure, the consumer can:
- reject the goods and choose a refund or a replacement, or
- ask for compensation for any drop in value of the goods
This is only a basic summary of the relevant sections of the ACL.
Further information can be found at: http://www.consumerlaw.gov.au
Disclaimer: The above should not be taken to be legal advice. You should always seek specific advice which takes into account your specific situation. In addition the above summary does not set out many of the "exceptions" to the general rule and other technical information.
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Delta Brotherhood Battlefield 3 Server Live
Thanks to Jkr, (db]] has its first Battlefield 3 Server up and running.
You can see the server (to add to your favourites) here.
Lets get it populated and running a top map rotation. When reserved slots are active - hopefully we will be able to provide these to our members.
See you all on the Battlefield!
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Mechanical Key Boards 101
Introduction
I was asked by Kopta to do a write up on mechanical keyboards so, here goes nothing. Mechanical keyboards can be part of some what of a serious hobby, input peripherals. Much like the audiophiles, these input device enthusiasts spend large amounts of time, money and effort sourcing modifying and repairing devices. I am NOT one of these people. I mealy appreciate a mechanical keyboard for gaming and typing.General Info
Mechanical keyboards differ from regular keyboards via one main factor. Rather then using a rubber dome or a membrane under each key, they use a physical switch mechanism. For a regular keyboard to register a key press you much completely bottom out the key, that is push the down on the key until it has zero travel left. The amount of force required will differ from key to key, which to a person who has not felt a mechanical keyboard is not really noticed, but is none the less a factor.
On mechanical keyboard, with its presciently made switches, there is no need to bottom out each key and force required for each and every key is exactly the same. The overall build quality is far above that of other keyboards. Now that's not to say that other expensive are cheaply made, just that as rule of thumb mechanical keyboards are very well made. But by far the biggest advantage is being able to choose the right switch for you.
The feel of regular switches when compared to a mechanical switches can only be described as 'mushy'.
On a side note, mechanical keyboards come in many different form factors. Some are full size (104 key), some lack thee numpad, know as a tenkeyless (87 key) and some are just the most basic keys, usually around 60 keys.
Switch Info
The standard mechanical switches are MX Cherry. They are differentiated by colour. For instance, I own two keyboards, one with cherry backs and one with cherry browns. There are other types such as buckling spring and torpe switches but I wont be covering them as I doubt anyone would bother sourcing these nor paying the astronomical price price.
Before diving into the details on each colour switch, I will explain some of the aspects of mechanical switches.
Tactile vs Non Tactile
Tactile switches have physical response as the point of activation. So the moment the key is activated, which is NOT the point the key bottoms out, you can feel it in the key. Hard to explain but take my word for it. Obviously non tactile does not have this response.
Clicky vs Non Clicky
Clicky means there is an audible high pitched click at the point of activation. Once again this is not at the bottom out point.
Actuation Force
Simply the force required to move the key.
Linear vs Non Linear
This refers to the force diagram of the switch. For some switches the force required to actuate the key changes based on the travel, this is a non linear switch. If the force required is constant, the switch is linear. As a general rule linear is better for gaming.
The switch colours are as follows. I did not write this section its taken from another website.
Cherry MX Black
Type: Linear Switch
Data Sheet: http://docs-europe.e...66b8014611b.pdfTactile: No
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 60g (40g-80g overall)
Force Diagram: http://www.overclock...pictureid=22302
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX-Black switches are linear (non-tactile) switches, these are considered one of the best switch types for gaming. When gaming, having a tactile bump does absolutely nothing because you're going to be bottoming out anyway. So these give you a very smooth feel. The actuation and release points are at the exact same position as well. So games that require a lot of double tapping become easier than on any other keyswitch. However, most people don't enjoy typing on them that much do in part, to their linear nature.
If you're a person who tends to hit a wrong key every so often while gaming, these will be beneficial in that the high actuation force will help prevent many of those accidental presses.
Cherry MX Brown
Type: Tactile Switch
Data Sheet: http://docs-europe.e...66b8014611b.pdfTactile: Yes
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 45g (55g Peak Force)
Force Diagram: http://www.overclock...pictureid=22307
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX Brown switches are considered a middle ground between typing and "gaming" switches. They have a light, tactile feel half way through the key press that lets you know the switch has activated. This gives you an indication of what you can release the switch. The switch is considered a middle ground because the reset point & actuation point are close enough together than you can "float" at that point, enabling you to double tap faster.
As a note: this switch actually has a peak force of 55G, it is 45G at the point of actuation. This is due to the design of the Cherry switch itself.
Cherry MX Red
Type: Linear Switch
Link: http://docs-europe.e...66b8014611b.pdfTactile: No
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 45g
Force Diagram: http://www.overclock...pictureid=22309
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX-Red's are another switch that can be considered a "gaming" switch. It's essentially a lighter version of the MX Black, requiring less force to actuate. Some people do not find this switch that good for typing or gaming because it is so light, but others rave for this fact. Light or Stiff is always a matter of preference. This switch was hard to find; and was reported as EOL, but it is still in limited production with a higher than average MOQ leading to higher cost to board makers. Marketed with high demand, boards with this switch are becoming more common, but are generally more expensive as well.
Cherry MX Blue
Type: Tactile & Clicky Switch
Link: http://docs-europe.e...66b8014611b.pdfTactile: Yes, precise
Clicky: Yes
Actuation Force: 50g (60g Peak Force)
Force Diagram: http://www.overclock...pictureid=22305
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX Blue switches are the best cherry switch for typing. The tactile bump can easily be felt, and the resistance is similar to your average keyboard.
Although many people find them just fine for gaming, some don't like the fact that the release point is above the actuation point. This can cause some trouble with double-tapping. This is usually the case with someone who has experienced other mechanical switches before hand.
As a note: this switch actually has a peak force of 60g, it is 50g at the point of actuation. This is due to the design of the Cherry switch itself.
Cherry MX Clear
Type: Tactile Switch
Link: http://docs-europe.e...66b8014611b.pdfTactile: Yes
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 55g (65G peak force)
Force Diagram: http://www.overclock...pictureid=22308
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX Clear switches have often been called "stiffer browns" though some users note that they have more of a tactile feel than browns do. This really can be a subjective topic, though this is another switch that could be considered "ballanced." The force required is comparable to most rubber dome keyboards, with a nice tactile feedback to tell you the key has actuated. These switches are harder to find on keyboards.
As a note: this switch actually has a peak force of 65g, it is 55g at the point of actuation. This is due to the design of the Cherry switch itself.
My Keyboards
I own two mechanical key boards, both i am very happy with.
Flico Majestouch (Cherry MX Brown)
http://www.auspcmark...N104MC-AI/1838/
(Currently they only sell it with cherry blues, but it was browns when I bought it)
Filco Majestouch Ninja (Cherry MX Black)
http://www.auspcmark...87ML-EFB2/1838/
Impressions
I am currently typing on the ninja, however i prefer typing on the on my regular majesttouch. When it comes to gaming, each keyboard has its own advantages. My ninja has slightly stiffer keys but are linear and non tactile, meaning double tapping and rapid key presses are easier. My majestouch requires less force to actuate the keys but is tactile and has a release point.
I generally interchange between the two depending on the game i'm playing and how i'm feeling at the time.
Further Reading & Links
The keyboard section at www.overclock.net is good place to get some info and advice.
http://www.overclock...tml#post6069310
This thread in particular.
The ultimate forum for any input device,
This where i got both my keyboards since finding some of the rarer keyboards in Australia can be challenging.
http://www.auspcmarket.com.au/
I could cover more but don't feel it necessary. I also haven't listed any keyboards other the ones I own since there are so many. I can however recommend some if people ask. Any further questions feel free to ask!
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How to play BF3 now.
Good news for Australian players of Battlefield 3 who would otherwise be forced to wait until 27 October 2011 for the local release (where the US release is the 25 October).
Australian players are able to use a proxy to "activate" their copy of BF3 which has been pre-ordered on Origin, then play. This wont help players who have pre-ordered a physical copy of the game and have to wait until store release, but hey, some people might benefit.
How to do this?
Step 1. Control Panel>Internet Options>Connections>LAN Settings>Use a Proxy Server for your LAN Tick it and use the following addy: 203.232.208.116 Port: 8080
Step 2. Activate on Origin (Run Bf3.exe - it will run Origin.)
Step 3. Remove proxy. (Then restart BF3.exe and Battlelog will work)
Step 4. Enjoy Battlefield 3 early!
There is a little risk that EA may not be happy with this, however in our view this risk is very slight considering the game has already been officially launched elsewhere. Update: Also see this. But as always - do this at your own risk!
Once again, the flaws in having staggered releases across different countries are exposed. Will be interesting to see whether game studios continue to see this as a viable deistribution method.
Enjoy. Fuckers. I am at work.
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